Today in the cold rain of Sarajevo, it seemed like a movie I saw a week ago, so far away. Sarajevo in the rain is a bone-chilling event - none of the hot steamy summer rains of our East coast. It amazes me how stiflingly brutal the heat can be one afternoon, and then how downright cold the rain makes the next. The sidewalks are full of the pocked-marked memories of the shelling, and in the sunshine they are a broken ankle waiting to happen (particularly in heels), the rain however, fills these little basins with water - now providing two reasons not to step into them. In the rain, the begging gypsies are not as evident, and the men in the parks with the mini-cars have not left their garages. You are wise not to wear light colored pants because the young men in their fast cars hit those puddles with a certain smug satisfaction, and the dry-cleaning facilities in this city are few and far between.